12 V, 24 V or 48 V battery: which voltage for the bank
See why the bank voltage changes the current, the cable size and the loss, and choose 12 V, 24 V or 48 V by system power. A calculator is included.
The same power needs a different current
When building a battery bank, the first decision is the voltage. The power of a load does not change, but the current leaving the bank changes a lot: the lower the voltage, the higher the current. The calculations below assume DC power with no conversion losses.
Why current matters
High current calls for thick cables and larger fuses and breakers, and causes loss in the cables, which heat up. The power lost grows with the square of the current (P = I² × R): doubling the current quadruples the loss.
Going from 12 V to 48 V cuts the loss to 1/16 of the original value with the same cable. That is why larger systems use higher voltages.
Compare with your own data
Enter the power, the bank voltage, the cable length and the cross-section. The calculator shows the current, the voltage drop and the power lost in the copper.
Which voltage for which power
12 V
up to about 1 kWFor small systems: lighting, a pump, a caravan, a boat. The current is high, so cables must be short and thick.
24 V
1 to 3 kWA middle ground for small homes and cabins. Half the current of 12 V, with two 12 V units in series.
48 V
above 3 kWThe most common voltage for hybrid inverters and residential rack batteries, though not every model uses 48 V. Lower current, thinner cables and less loss.
These limits are orders of magnitude, not hard rules. What decides is the inverter input: the bank must have the voltage the equipment accepts.
How to build the voltage you want
- Series adds the voltage: 4 batteries of 12 V give 48 V, and the capacity in Ah stays that of one battery (see batteries in series and parallel)
- Choose the inverter and the bank together: the inverter’s input voltage sets the bank voltage
- Cables and protection: the cable cross-section must carry the current, and the fuse must be sized for it (see system protection devices)
- Think ahead: changing the voltage later means replacing batteries and inverter, so it pays to start at a voltage that leaves room to grow
Draw it in Editor Solar
This is Editor Solar itself, already loaded with the diagram from this article. Move the equipment, edit labels, connect new parts and export to PNG, SVG or PDF. It is free and runs right in your browser.
Try it: Replace the power with the loads you plan to run at the same time and redo the bank current at 12 V, 24 V and 48 V.
Ready-made templates: see all diagram templates